October 19, 2023
Moritz Grossmann TEFNUT Silver Plated by Friction

Traditional craftsmanship at its finest: the new TEFNUT silver-plated by friction


The TEFNUT model incorporates all the classic virtues associated with the Moritz Grossmann manufactory: a simple design that embodies pure understatement coupled with high-quality materials that are finished by hand. Moreover, every single detail, no matter how small, is absolutely perfect. The model from the TEFNUT line has now been given a completely new look: with a dial that has been hand silverplated by friction, the new TEFNUT silver-plated by friction exudes a confident and elegant presence.

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All watches produced by the Moritz Grossmann manufactory in Glashütte have one thing in common: they fascinate from every perspective. Whether you look at the ‘face’ of the watch – the dial with hands – or the movement, the high quality standards of the German watch brand and its keen sense of original details are evident at every turn. And this is proven once again by the TEFNUT silver-plated by friction, which has been selected to be the new basic model for the Tefnut line. Its dial is what gives this new product a distinctive sparkle, exemplified by a simple, reduced style with a touch of elegance. Grain or silver-plating by friction: traditional craftsmanship applied to the dial.

The surface of the dial has a velvety, matt structure that has been created using a 19th century technique handed down through the generations, namely grain or silver-plating by friction. This is carried out by hand in the Moritz Grossmann ateliers. A special paste comprising silver powder, salt, cream of tartar and water is rubbed on using a small brush and worked in until the structure exhibits a fine grain. The surface is then perfected with a careful final polish. Every single one of these steps must be executed with a great deal of sensitivity and requires a delicate touch combined with experience. This is why only a few experts have mastered this traditional technique. However, the end result justifies the time it takes: the interplay of light and shadow, gloss and matt creates a unique effect that contributes to creating the distinctive charm of the TEFNUT.

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The dial: contrasting colours and fine lines

Contrasting black elements serve to highlight the surface of the dial: all numerals and lettering, the minute scale and historic logo ‘M. Grossmann.’ dating from 1875 are set in black lacquer. The dial was then fired in the kiln. As the silver powder does not adhere to lacquer, the lacquered surfaces do not end up being silver plated themselves.

The fine curve of the numerals matches the brown-violet annealed hands. These are made by hand in a series of elaborate steps. Their gently rounded lines and delicate tip catch the eye of any beholder.

The case: a format to suit every wrist

The new TEFNUT silver-plated by friction has a diameter of 39 millimetres, making it the perfect companion for any wrist. The case is available in either exquisite rose gold or expressive stainless steel and has a classic, slimline silhouette.

The flat design makes it all the more comfortable to wear and also ensures an elegant appearance. Characteristic details include the crown adorned with transverse grooves, the slim lugs and a strap made from hand-sewn alligator leather. The case in rose gold is combined with brown alligator leather, while the stainless steel version is worn on a black alligator leather strap.




The hand-wound calibre 102.1: a mechanism of perfect aesthetics

The proven calibre 102.1, which is just four millimetres high with a diameter of 26 millimetres, works its magic inside the TEFNUT silver-plated by hand, lending elegance to the case. Its carefully planned architecture is combined with all the typical features of a Grossmann calibre.

The hand-wound movement comprises a classic pillar movement formed of a main plate and 3/5 plate. Typical elements include a stepped balance cock with Grossmann micrometer screw and the raised chatons.

Both the construction and sophisticated finish are typical of the Glashütte watch manufactory: the plates bear the distinctive Glashütte ribbing, while the brand name is engraved by hand in block capitals. The balance cock is also engraved by hand with a fine, floral pattern. Another typical feature is the white sapphires as jewels that are set in gold chatons and held by brown-violet screws.

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